I have been in something of a cooking slump since mid-February. When the Brussels sprouts first arrived in late fall, I bought them by the stalk and brandished them joyfully. Now, I recoil slightly at the bin of sprouts at Iovine’s. I’ve been similarly unmoved by potatoes, kale, and dense winter squashes for weeks.
I thought it was simply a general weariness with winter that was causing my resentment towards the available produce. However, now I realize that I was simply suffering from the effects of a rut – because since a copy of Deborah Madison’s new book, Vegetable Literacy, arrived last week, I have found myself picking up beets, carrots, and onions with fresh inspiration and no small amount of giddiness.
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During my time as a nutrition editor, I learned basically just one thing for sure: For any one study suggesting something about a particular food, there’s another one in the recent past that will prove the opposite. Though almost every ingredient has its boosters and opponents, no food is so fraught with conflict as the egg. Perhaps you’ve seen the