Egged!
How the egg's popularity spans place and time.
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 Recipes                              
The Coddled Egg
Scrambled Eggs
Eggs Royale
French Vanilla Almond Toast

If it were true that man cannot stand too much perfection, then we would not have the egg. And without the perfect egg we would have neither cakes nor custards, no crème caramel or brulée, no quiche or Angel’s Food cake, no béarnaise or hollandaise, and therefore no eggs Benedict! There would be no zabaglione, no chocolate mousse or eggy gelato, no bread pudding or French toast, or dozens and dozens of delights in which eggs work their inimitable magic, leavening, binding, thickening, enhancing, and enriching. And I haven’t even mentioned all the dishes in which the egg is the star — deviled eggs, egg salad, egg sauce, egg nog and breakfast sunnysideup-overeasyscrambledpoachedcoddledshirredhaveityourway eggs.

Hold perfection in your hand for a moment before plunging it into boiling water, or cracking it on the edge of the pan before frying or the rim of the bowl before scrambling. Just look at it. Perfection. You don’t see that every day. Or maybe you do, and don’t give it a second glance. The egg is a common but also potent symbol imbued with centuries of reverence and regard.

Only during the spring does the egg get anything close to the attention it deserves. After all, when but during the days before Easter is the egg more carefully examined? The pastel painted eggs nestled in the Easter basket — alongside foil-wrapped, egg-shaped chocolates and too-cute-to-bite bunnies — doesn’t begin to tell the tale. The history of the iconic, symbolic, legendary egg emerges from the mists of time, thousands of years ago.

Eggs and birds have been around far longer than historians. Egyptian and Chinese records show that fowl were laying eggs for consumption as early as 1400 B.C.E. More than just food, this bit of life encased in a brittle shell assumed symbolic importance from the beginning of civilization. The Phoenicians believed the very creation of heaven and earth began with a primordial egg breaking apart. In an interesting inversion, Ptah, god of the ancient Egyptians — is said to have created the egg from the sun and moon. According to Native Americans, the world was created when the Great Spirit burst forth from the giant golden egg and created the world.

Early Spring festivals, welcoming the sun's return from its long winter sleep, were part of every early civilization, and the egg would play it’s part. Easter, a rite of Spring celebrating Christ’s resurrection, which has its antecedent in the risen Adonis, is no exception. Blessed, colored, eaten, displayed, and exchanged, the egg had long been associated with the change of season, and proof of the renewal of life.

Soon after the date for Easter was astronomically fixed in 525 C.E., decision-makers within the church made eggs forbidden during Lent. Since you could not, however, stop hens from laying, there was a glut of eggs on the market. This surplus may have inspired the hard-boiling and decorating of eggs that became part of the Easter celebration.

In Germany, emptied eggshells are painted, decorated with lace and ribbon, and hung on a small leafless tree. Poles, Slavs, and Ukrainians share an enduring tradition of elaborately decorated Easter eggs. Every dot, line and cross-hatching in the pattern is meaningful. Yugoslavian Easter eggs bear the initials "XV" for "Christ is Risen," a traditional Easter greeting.

In Imperial Russia, Easter was celebrated with far more fanfare than Christmas. The tradition of the decorated Easter egg reached its zenith during the time of the final Tsar, Nicholas II, when exquisite, bejeweled eggs were commissioned from the goldsmith Peter Carl Fabergé. These precious eggs made of gold and rock crystal, and decorated with diamonds, amethyst, and rubies, often concealed something even more extravagant within. All this artistry and indulgent expense was meant, the artist-jeweler said, merely to charm and nothing more. No wonder the serfs revolted.

Rolling and hunting for Easter eggs has long been an important part of the Easter holiday in England and the U.S. Brightly colored eggs are called pace eggs in England, after pascha, Latin for Easter, and are said to symbolize the rolling away of the stone that entombed Christ. The egg and Easter are inseparable.

This remarkable gift of the bird to man touches every culture and cuisine. Ostrich, duck, plover, gull, quail, and the ubiquitous hen eggs are among those enjoyed in some form or another: egg-drop soups like Italian Stracciatella, Greek avgolemono and Japanese tamago toji; a French omelet or an Italian frittata; Chinese thousand year-old eggs and spiced pigeon eggs; Thai kai khem (salted duck eggs); Mexican huevos rancheros (eggs, tortillas, cheese and spicy salsa); sausage-wrapped Scotch eggs; Florentine eggs; Creole eggs; Basque eggs; Finnish egg cheese; and sweet Portuguese egg custard, barriga de freira (Nun’s Tummies), are just a few of literally thousands of egg-based recipes that cut across every ethnic line.

Look at perfection again. Neat, huh? To those of you who have abandoned the egg in favor of gagging down a bowl of dusty cereal flecked with hard bits of dried fruit — rejoice! The neatly self-packaged egg is also food perfection. Each egg is a mere 70 calories and is loaded with what’s good for you: potassium, protein, calcium, iron, thiamine, riboflavin, vitamins A, B-6, B-12, phosphorus, and zinc. Eggs also provide lecithin — which contains a phospholipid, acetycholine, that has been demonstrated to have a profound effect on brain function — and lutein and zeaxanthin, which promote eye health. That’s just one egg, and really, who eats just one?

Convenient, tasty, essential, primal — the egg is undeniably part of life. It fits into any setting, casual or formal, and is always there when needed. So join with me to intone the words of the American poet, Clarence Day:

Oh, who that ever lived and loved
Can look upon an egg unmoved?
The egg is the source of all.
’Tis everyone’s ancestral hall ... Oh, join me gentlemen I beg.
In honoring our friend, the egg.

Now, get crackin’.

Edward Bottone, a food and lifestyle journalist, is Chef/Instructor in the Culinary Arts program at Drexel University and has been a radio talk show host and TV presenter, and is also a food stylist and photographer.

Eggy Facts

• The color of the shell has nothing to do with anything except the type of hen that laid the egg.
• The hue of the yolk, on the other hand, is affected by what the hen is fed. Wheat-fed hens will produce darker yolks than those fed on corn and alfalfa.
• Blood spots occasionally found on an egg yolk do not indicate a fertilized egg. Rather, they are caused by the rupture of a blood vessel on the yolk surface during formation of the egg or by a similar accident in the wall of the oviduct. Less than one percent of all eggs have blood spots. The spot can be removed with the tip of a knife. Chemically and nutritionally, these eggs are fit to eat.
• Eggs should be stored large end up in the refrigerator, away from foods with strong smells. An egg at room temperature will lose more of its freshness in a day than a refrigerated egg will in a week.
• Egg whites may be frozen (in an ice cube tray and then bagged for convenience) for six months.Ever wonder where the term “nest egg” originated? In the hen house, of course. A natural, or wooden egg, was placed in a nest to encourage a hen to lay there rather than in some secluded hiding place. Now, we think of a nest egg as money set aside as a reserve.


The Coddled Egg (for the coddled Breakfaster), by Edward Bottone

1/2 teaspoon butter
2 eggs
1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Bring a pan of water to a boil. Meanwhile, set up your eggs in the pretty porcelain coddler. Carefully crack the eggs into the coddler, put the butter pat on top, the cheese on top of that, and the salt and pepper next. Screw the lid on but not too tightly. Holding the lid ring, put the coddler into the boiling water. Water should come 3/4 of the way up the side. Cook for 10 minutes for soft eggs, 12 for full-set.

 

Scrambled Eggs, by Edward Bottone

They’re not just for breakfast any more. Nothing is more versatile and a better background for using up leftovers than scrambled eggs. Remember that scene in the movie The Big Night? Scrambled eggs made everything right. Especially if you make them just rightt

4 tablespoons butter
5 to 6 eggs (how hungry are you?)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
2 tablespoon water

Melt the butter in a heavy skillet or nonstick pan. Beat the eggs, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons water in a bowl. Pour into the skillet, and turn the heat down to very low. Gently stir the egg mixture, lifting it up and over from the bottom as it thickens. Continue to stir until the desired texture is achieved. Caution: For soft and moist eggs, remove from the heat a little before the eggs reach the desired texture; they continue to cook after being removed from the pan.

Variations on the theme:

• Scrambled Eggs with Peppers and Onions: Sauté 1/2 red pepper, diced, and 1/4 onion, chopped, in butter for about 5 minutes before adding the egg mixture.

• Scrambled Eggs with Cream Cheese and Chives: Cut 4 ounces cream cheese into small cubes. Add the cheese and 1 tablespoon chopped chives and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley to the eggs after.

• Scrambled Eggs with Mushrooms and Herbs: Melt the butter in a heavy skillet. Sauté some minced onion over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, add 1 cup or so sliced mushrooms and a teaspoon each of dried thyme and oregano, and a tablespoon of fresh minced parsley. Cook until the mushrooms are soft and most of the moisture is gone. Lower the heat before adding the egg mixture.

• Scrambled Eggs with Ham: Add 1/2 cup chopped cooked ham to the egg mixture as it begins to thicken in the skillet.

• Scrambled Eggs with Chicken Livers and Onions: Sauté 3 tablespoons or so of minced onion in butter for 3 to 4 minutes. Add chopped chicken livers and cook until done (but not dried out). Add the egg mixture and stir until done.

• Scrambled Eggs with Asparagus: Add 2/3 cup crisp-cooked asparagus, cut in 2-inch pieces, to the eggs just after they begin to thicken in the skillet

 

Eggs Royale, by Edward Bottone

This version of Eggs Benedict substitutes smoked salmon for ham.

2 Servings

4 eggs
1 scant top white vinegar
1 recipe Hollandaise sauce (follows)
2 large slices of smoked salmon
2 English muffins, slit toasted
1 tablespoon cream cheese
Parsley sprigs and lemon slices for garnish

Make the Hollandaise sauce and keep ready. Heat a pan of water to just below a boil. Add the vinegar. Carefully break the eggs into the water keeping each egg a little distance from the next in a clockwise rotation so that you know which one went in first. Allow the eggs to gently poach. Have a slotted spoon handy to remove them from the water.

Meanwhile, toast the muffins and paint them with some cream cheese. Set a half slice of smoked salmon on each and put them on arm plates. The eggs should now be ready. Starting with the one that went in first, pull them from the water with the slotted spoon and allow to drain a few seconds on a towel. Carefully place a poached egg on each salmon topped-muffin. When all eggs are in place top with Hollandaise sauce, garnish with parsley and lemon slice and serve immediately.

Hollandaise Sauce

2 egg yolks
1 tablespoons water
1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut in pieces
Juice of two lemons
Salt to taste

Beat the yolks in the tablespoon of water over a double boiler until they begin to thicken. Work the butter in a little at a time, allowing each piece to be incorporated before adding the next. When the butter is all in and sauce is fairly thick, add the lemon juice slowly, beating all the while. Continue beating until a rich sauce-like consistency is achieved. Salt to taste. Keep at warm room temperature.

Should the mixture begin to separate before the addition of the lemon juice, add the juice immediately, beating furiously to save the mixture. Hollandaise doesn’t reheat well. It may be very gently warmed, but has a tendency to separate

 

French Vanilla Almond Toast, by Edward Bottone

Since at least the 15th century, the frugal French have been resurrecting stale bread, or Pain Perdu, lost bread, which would otherwise be “lost” without eggs.

2 Servings

4 eggs
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
4 thick slices Portuguese egg bread, (or brioche cut on the diagonal)
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
Confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Beat the eggs until light and frothy. Add the heavy cream and flavorings. Submerge the bread slices in the egg mixture and coat well.

Heat half the butter in a sauté pan until foaming and fry the eggy bread slices until golden brown on both sides (about two minutes per side). Serve on warmed plates dusted with confectioner’s sugar with room temperature butter pats, and blueberry or maple syrup nearby.

 
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