After my underfed and over imbibed night at the Brewer’s Plate, I assumed the vegetarian movement was an afterthought in Philadelphia's fine dining scene. But then I discovered Horizons, an all vegan eatery that has successfully taken meatless upscale.

PETA dubbed Horizons one of the top 8 vegetarian restaurants in America. While this nod from the champions of anti-animal cruelty carries weight with vegetarians, many culinary aficionados learned the name last November when Horizons's Chef Richard Landau and wife and co-owner Kate Jacoby were the first to bring vegan cuisine to New York’s James Beard House. The Beard House is the food equivalent of the Oscars, offering its kitchen to iconic guest chefs like Wolfgang Puck and Julia Child. Its mission is to celebrate and nurture America’s culinary heritage, and their recognition of quality meatless food was a momentous step forward for animal-friendly chefs and eaters alike.

Horizons sits on the corner of 7th and Kater Street half a block below South Street. Outdoor seating wraps around the restaurant, with the Kater Street side removed from the noise run-off of South Street and the rumble of cars coming up 7th. Its stucco-tan exterior and southwestern color palette is a bit of Santa Fe in South Philly. Inside, it's part chic and part crunchy; with sharp lines and modern furniture softened by earth tones and plant life. The menu is a melting pot of influences for an eclectic-bordering-on-schizophrenic offering.

I began with a refreshing Kyoto Sour cocktail of sake, grapefruit, cucumber, and agave nectar garnished with a slice of star fruit, and the waitress-recommended Jamaican BBQ Seitan appetizer with jícama slaw and smoked chile dip. But for a former Caribbean food addict, the seitan fell short of my lofty expectations. It was swamped in a listless barbecue sauce, possessing none of the punch of the allspice and Scotch bonnet-based Jerk flavor that characterizes Jamaican barbecue.

A neighboring table with the same appetizer said of the chewy faux-meat, “it doesn't feel meatless, but it just feels like fatty meat.”

Of the entrees, the Early Spring Vegetable Tart was an easy choice for an aspiring seasonal, local eater. The narrow slice of tart was filled with fennel, leeks, arugula & fava bean purée that were, unfortunately, overwhelmed by the intense bitterness of the arugula. A side of piquillo pepper stuffed with rutabaga and new potato salad was the high point, but didn't redeem the dish's greater failure.

Then came a mammoth portion of Pacific Rim Grilled Tofu. The tofu played a role traditionally filled by a tuna steak or chicken breast, and it stood up magnificently. A gochujang glaze and flattering grill marks gave it an island feel and flavor deserving of the Pac Rim title, and the accompanying edamame puree could have starred on its own.

I ended the night with a cappuccino and a chocolate tart with peanut butter ice cream. While lost in a state of sheer chocolate-peanut butter bliss I nearly forgot - it's all vegan.

Before leaving, I asked co-owner Kate if their vegetables were locally sourced.

“We try to buy locally as much as possible - our tofu comes from Fresh Tofu in Allentown and the seitan is from a local supplier as well.” She continued, “Some of the produce is local and the amount increases with the summer months, and we also get our mushrooms from Kennett Square.”

Horizons is Philadelphia's most renowned meatless restaurant, and rightfully so. The food is deceptively vegan with inspired presentations, innovative menu selections, hearty portions, and rich flavors – not to mention, not too bad on the wallet, as entrees run up to $20. Some dishes are over sauced, but then again you have to give life to tofu somehow. If you're vegan or vegetarian and looking for a romantic night or just a step up from dinner as usual, this is the place.

Trevor Dye is a freelance journalist covering all things thrifty, diy, green, and vegetarian. He resides in West Philly and moonlights as a yoga teacher. His work has appeared on Brokelyn.com.

"Veg' Head" photograph from dustinj, via Flickr (Creative Commons), "Philly" photograph from camardella, via Flickr (Creative Commons).