| Also in Tequila... |
| • Tequila Pilgrimage |
Sure, sure, we keep hearing reports about tequila's rise, and we see the sales of premium tequila grow every year: According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, tequila imports have grown almost 50 percent since 2002. But that growth is driven mainly by cocktail geeks like me, people who see the value in spending $40 or more for a spirit made with 100 percent blue agave. When I offer most acquaintances a tequila, the vast majority of them say something like, "Ugh, tequila. I just can't drink that. Not since this bad night in college."
Frankly, I am tired of hearing about people's bad night in college. I am also tired of people kidding themselves that "it doesn't matter" whether you use a low- or high-quality spirit in a cocktail.
That's why we've conducted this tasting panel: In hopes of suggesting high-quality tequilas to help introduce newbies to the this wonderful spirit. On average, fine tequilas are slightly more expensive than other spirits, but the price is more than often justified. Still, you can find the best examples of blancos for $30 to $45, reposados for $40 to $50 and añejos for $50 to $60.
Blanco
Also known as silver or platinum, blanco tequilas are bottled without aging. Many believe they are the purest expression of the agave and are the best for most tequila-based cocktails. |
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Siete Leguas
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El Tesoro
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Patron Silver |
Siembra Azul Blanco |
Milagro
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| The most balanced, smoothest blanco you'll find. A must-have that you can sip neat. |
Bold, earthy aroma. Unbelievable flavor, full of spice, lime and finish. Versatile neat or in cocktails. | The standard-bearer in the category; round, soft and light. Wonderful tequila to convert newbies. | Big agave flavor with pepper and floral notes. Excellent in cocktails. | Soft, light sweetness with a nice hint of salt. Great value; great mixer. |
Reposado
Reposado ("rested") tequila must age in oak for two to 12 months. The wood softens the blanco's edge while still allowing full agave flavor. With reposados, I look for a versatile spirit that I can sip neat or serve in a cocktail.
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El Diamante
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Casa Noble
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Tezón
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El Tesoro
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Sauza Hornitos Reposado |
| Spends more time in wood than any other reposado. Bright, fruity nose, with smooth finish. | Mix of spice and citrus with a hint of oak and vanilla. One of the finest, and an excellent value. | A bit pricey, but worth it. Peppery aroma with creamy vanilla notes and a smoky finish. | The gold standard. Robust aroma of spices and herbs; smooth, gorgeous flavor of dried fruit and citrus. | Light, mellow flavor and fresh, fruity nose. A strong value that works well in cocktails. |
Añejo
These tequilas are aged in oak for one to three years. They are meant for sipping neat, never for cocktails. The trick with añejo is finding one that retains some agave flavor and aroma. Age varies greatly: Siete Leguas spends 18 to 24 months in oak, while El Tesoro ages for up to 3 years; both are exceptional. |
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Siete Leguas
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El Tesoro
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Herradura
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Siembra Azul
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| One of the finest spirits in the world at its price. Lighter than most añejos, but with layers of flavor. |
Another amazing spirit. Robust but balanced mix of oak, agave, fruit and caramel. | Classic, oaky and bourbonlike with caramel and vanilla, yet still a slight taste of earthy agave. | Aged 18 months, this new release is a winner. Smooth, soft, balanced. |
Jason Wilson is editor of The Smart Set. He also edits The Best American Travel Writing series (Houghton Mifflin) and writes the Spirits column for the Washington Post.
"Booze" photograph by Lynn Brownlie and Mike Bucher, "Bottle" photograph from istockphoto.com.
