Dispatches TM_TR_WTORO_FI_001

When it comes to wine, we rarely consider its journey from grape to glass. Instead, we fixate on describing its characteristics, like fresh and fruity aromas, savory flavors or an elegant finish. Sometimes we complain that the complexity of a wine doesn’t correspond with the amount we paid for it. And far too often, we ponder the perfect food and wine pairings.

We readily use our senses of sight, smell, touch, and taste to evaluate the quality of wine, but we seldom consider the story behind that bottle. Every wine has a specific place where it was made and the greatest ones have the fingerprints of passionate and intriguing workers all over them. Just like knowing the roasted chicken you are preparing for dinner was raised cage-free or the organic apple you’re about to bite into isn’t covered in pesticides, hearing the details of any bottle of wine can absolutely make a difference in your enjoyment of it. At least, it does for me. MORE

Dispatches

One Nation Under Dog

The best reason to visit New Jersey

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No one escapes high school without internalizing the idea that America is a melting pot. But recently, as I ate my way through New Jersey, I realized there’s a more accurate analogy that describes our national character. America is actually more like a hot dog cart. Look closely at this humble foodstuff and you can see how generations of hungry immigrants and food traditions from the whole world converge on the bun. And there’s no better vantage point from which to examine the hot dog than the annual New Jersey State Hotdog Tour.

The Garden State, so near the hub of Ellis Island, is the hotdog capital of America. Sure, New York’s venders are more visible in movies and the Chicago dog, piled with veggies, gets more attention in the pages of foodie magazines, but a trip up and down the Garden State Parkway reveals the hotdog’s real identity. MORE

Dispatches

Get Cultured

A glimpse at one of the country's funkiest festivals

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Beer. Cheese. Kimchi. Wine. Sauerkraut. Some of the finest things in life are the handiwork of those beneficent microbes that bring the funk and flavor. The annual Fermentation Festival and “Meet The Makers” event in Kennett Square, Pa., sets out to celebrate this ancient culinary art. This year’s party drew brewers, cheesemakers, vintners and more to demonstrated their craft for the hungry, thirsty, and curious masses. Couldn’t make it? Here are some images captured at the this year’s festival, which happened over the weekend. And take a moment now to set a calendar reminder to check the schedule next September. You don’t want to miss it again.

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    On September 28, vendors from all over the region displayed their fermented food and drink products at the Fermentation Festival and "Meet the Makers" event in Kennett Square, Pa.
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    Billy Rawstrom of Maiale Deli & Salumeria hands out samples of his Tuscan Salami during the festival. Rawstrom founded the handcrafted specialty sausage business four years ago, inspired by Armandino Batali's (yes, Mario's dad) store in Seattle.
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    Billy Rawstrom of Maiale Deli & Salumeria slices a version of his Tuscan Salami, made with ground pork, fennel, and red wine.
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    Kristian Holbrook, cheesemaker at Doe Run Farms, prepares his Saint Malachi, a soft, white wine cheese made from cow's milk.
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    An assortment of cow's milk cheeses presented by Kristian Holbrook, the cheesemaker at Doe Run Farm in Coatesville, Pa.
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    Molly Doran, a representative of Philadelphia's Art in the Age of Reproduction distillery, makes mixed drinks using their organic Snap spirit. The 80 proof spirit is distilled using blackstrap molasses and fresh ginger.
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    Art in the Age of Reproduction mixes their Sage spirit and tonic for guests at the "Meet the Makers" event. Art in the Age refers to Sage as a "garden gin" with historical a nod to the types of plants found in Thomas Jefferson's garden at Monticello.
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    Paul and Cheryl Schlenker of Media, Pa., enjoy the atmosphere during the "Meet the Makers" event.
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    Steve Hobson (left) and Scott Birney (right) of the Sin City Band from West Grove, Pa., entertain guests with original music.
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    Birchrun Hills Farm owner Sue Miller (right) and her cousin Ruth Statt (left) explain differences in the farm's cheeses. Miller and her husband have been dairy farming for 25 years in Chester Springs, Pa., recently adding cheese to their farm's products.
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    Ruth Statt holds a sample of Birchrun Hills Farm's Equinox, an alpine style cow's milk cheese.
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    The Fermentation Festival's "Meet the Makers" event is held on Sycamore Alley off State Street, across from the Kennett Square Farmers Market.
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    Frecon Farm representatives shares samples of their Grabby Granny and Hogshead hard ciders made with apples from their family-run orchard in Boyertown, Pa.
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    Hank Frecon of Frecon Farms mans the table of his family's hard apple cider and apple wine during the "Meet the Makers" festival in Kennett Square, Pa.
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    Kennett Square Farmers Market manager Abby Morgan buys Farmhouse Apple Cider as part of a gift for a friend's wedding.
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    Guests at the "Meet the Makers" event.
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    People enjoy the cool fall weather into the evening during the "Meet the Makers" event.
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    Scott Rudich of Round Guys Brewing checks his phone between pours. Round Guys Brewing of Landsdale, Pa., was founded in 2008 by Rudich and friend Rich DiLiberto and now distributes to bars and restaurants throughout Pennsylvania.
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    Scott Rudich pours samples of Round Guy Brewing's strong Buh-Nana Hammock Saison and four-month-old Wild Eye Series Sour.
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    Kaitlin Ricketts, farm manager of Meadowset Farm and Apiary, enjoys neighboring vendor Gerard Olson's Duke Pale Ale – a very dry, full tasting beer. Olson is the owner and brewer of Forest and Main's brewery and pub in Ambler, Pa.
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    Brian Fenstermacher purchases Fecor Farm's apple wine.
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    Mary Hutchins (left) pours a glass of Hickerwood wine while Julie Wehner introduces guests to her family's winery. Started by her father Ron Zampogna in 2000, Flickerwood now features a wine cellar/lounge in Kane, Pa., and a tasting room in Kennett Square.
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    Roger Powell (center) and son Steve Powell (center-right) wait to hear a guest's reaction to their Oaktoberfest beer. The father-son duo operate the 1.5 barrel Argilla Brewing in Newark, Del.
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    Guests at "Meet the Makers" festival in Kennett Square, Pa.

Photos by Michael Bucher.

Dispatches

A Toast to History

A new exhibit celebrates wine as art

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    Champagne Charlie, Downs Collection Col. 240, 73x171 “Champagne Charlie” sheet music. Alfred Lee (composer), Oliver Ditson & Co. Boston, Massachusetts; 1867+
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    Wedgewood jasperware vase inspired by ancient wine vessels. Staffordshire, England, c. 1787.
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    Silver pitcher by Edward Lownes. Philadelphia, 1827.
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    Glass pattern book with American market wares. Bohemia (now Czech Republic), 1790–1825.
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    Glass pattern book with American market wares. Bohemia (now Czech Republic), 1790–1825.
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    As Sour as Verjuice (Or Vinegar)’” London, England; 1825–30.
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    English wooden bottle case with glassware. Bohemia, 1800-1830.
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    Glass decanter with floral wreath. Europe, possibly Germany (body), England or United States(stopper); 1800–1850.
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    Carafe or decanter. England; 1700–1730.
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    Bakewell, Page & Bakewell factory Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania; 1823.
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    Pewter monteith for rinsing or cooling glasses. England, 1725-75.
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    Wine goblets America, Bohemia and China, 1690-1860.
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    A trade card illustrating wine-drinking. United States, c. 1880.
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    Puzzle jugs for drinking games. England and America, 1750-1814.
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    Puzzle jugs for drinking games. England and America, 1750-1814.
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    Game for teaching temperance and other virtues. London, England, 1818.
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    Communion wine tankard by Paul Revere, Jr. Boston, MA, 1772, (dated 1768).

Try to imagine a world where flashy labels don’t exist to cloud your judgment and make the simple process of purchasing a bottle of wine far more complicated than it need be. A time when elegant glassware and ornate decanters were cherished almost as much as the liquid they contained.

It’s difficult to envision, I know, but not at the Winterthur Museum in Wilmington, Delaware, where the “Uncorked! Wine Objects and Tradition” exhibition takes us back in time and features items that reinforce the importance of the forgotten history, traditions, and rituals of wine.

The collection contains close to 400 English and American pieces–anything from sherry bottles that date back to before the nation’s founding to original trade cards used to first market wines, and many decorated drinking vessels and crafted sets of stemware. Together, they explore how wine was first marketed, consumed, and enjoyed from the 1600s through the 1800s. MORE

Dispatches

My Endangered Dinner

What happens when a cultural appetite clashes with the ecosystem.

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In the Cayman Islands, there’s chicken, and then there’s what the locals refer to as the “other white meat”: endangered sea turtle.

Most vacationers misunderstand and consequently avoid the native dishes on the island that feature turtle, but I wasn’t an ordinary tourist during the trip I took to the Caymans last month. I was returning to a place where I had lived as a young girl, and I longed for the distinct taste of turtle that marked my childhood. When my family lived there, dishes with turtle in them were a regular part of my diet. I ate the meat in stews and soups, as well as in the form of pan-fried steaks. Consuming turtle was the normal thing to do, and I never thought much of it. MORE