Questionable Tastes TM_PG_MUSCAD_FI_001

An Oyster’s Best Friend

Mineral and a bit strange, nothing goes with mollusks like muscadet

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Planet of the Grapes is now a series of digital wine guides from award-winning author Jason Wilson and Table Matters. Check out Volume 1: Alternative Reds today at Smart Set Press, and use the code MUSCADET for 50% off.

There are powerful wines and hedonistic wines. There are oaky wines and wines bursting with fruit. There are thrilling wines and profound wines. There are wines with beautifully-designed labels and wines with cute, easy-to-read labels. There are expensive wines and wines you keep in your cellar for decades.

Muscadet is absolutely none of these. Muscadet is low-key, low-alcohol, understated, sometimes tart, and always full of minerality. Muscadet is made from a grape called Melon de Borgogne. Mark Oldman, in his book Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine refers to muscadet’s “geology-class aroma of wet stones” and its “cleansing refreshment.”

In short, I cannot think of a wine that is less American than muscadet. And yet, no wine pairs better with the very American tradition of eating raw oysters. For years, it’s been the French bistro staple to pair with steely Belon oysters. In fact, there is nothing in the world that pairs better with raw shellfish than this white.

I love muscadet at this time of year, because I love to eat oysters on sunny afternoons (no, now that we live in age of refrigeration, I do not worry much about that old only-eat-oysters-in-months-with-an-‘r’ rule). It’s no surprise that the wine lists at my favorite buck-a-shuck happy hours always offers at least one muscadet by the glass.

Muscadet comes from the westernmost end of the Loire Valley, near the city of Nantes. It’s a strange designation, because “muscadet” doesn’t refer to geography or the grape, but rather a characteristic of the wine “vin qui a un gout musqué” — literally a “wine with a musk-like taste.” I’m not sure “musk” is the right way to describe it. But then, muscadet is more of a feeling or a sensation than individual, easily-identifiable aromas and flavors. Muscadet will usually have crisp minerality and a touch of sea salt. And it will often have a bit of spritz and a creaminess that comes from the fact that it’s made sur lie — meaning it’s aged on the lees, i.e. dead yeast cells. Yes, Muscadet is very a strange wine. Which is why I love it.

The finest ones come from an appellation called Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine. Picture that in a scripty gold font on a stodgy label – with illustrations of chateau and lots of other French words – and you can see why these wines might scare off some people. But don’t let it scare you. Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine is one of the best bargains in the wine shop. You can always find a bottle under $15, and often under $12.

Recommendations

Sauvion Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2011, $11.99
Fresh, like sea salt on watermelon, and with a talcum-like minerality.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2011, $12.99
Holy acidity! Holy saline! This is how you befriend an oyster.

Château de la Ragotière Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine 2011, $11.99
Fuller bodied and more complex than most muscadet. Texture like fresh spring rain, with a dry finish.

Domaine de la Landelle Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie 2011, $11.99
Imagine eating a kiwi fruit as you walk along a beach, sea spray in your face, with a dry finish that makes you want to eat more.

Château Les Fromenteaux Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos du Poyet Vielles Vignes 2011, $17.99
Crackling, lively acidity. Chalky and salty, but fresh and with a touch of underripe orchard fruit on the finish.

Photo by Good Afternoonan via Flickr (Creative Commons)

Jason Wilson is the author of Boozehound: On The Trail of the Rare, the Obscure, and the Overrated in Spirits and the wine series Planet of the Grapes. He previously wrote the drinks column for the Washington Post, which has won awards for Best Newspaper Food Column three times from the Association of Food Journalists. Wilson is director of the Center for Cultural Outreach at Drexel University, which also publishes The Smart Set. He is series editor of The Best American Travel Writing, was previously the food columnist for the Philadelphia Daily News and Philadelphia Magazine. Follow him on Twitter @boozecolumnist

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